刺山柑果提取物改善皮肤干燥的机理研究-《中国美容医学》

文章信息/Info

Author(s):: LU Yina; LIU Yuchen; ZHANG Wenhuan; XIONG Yue; (Shanghai JAKA Biotech Co.Ltd,Shanghai 201507,China)

Keywords:: capparis spinosa fruit; fi laggrin; skin hydration; TEWL; PCA; skin barrier function

摘要:: 目的：通过研究刺山柑果提取物（Capparis spinosa fruit extract，CS）对干燥皮肤的改善作用，来探讨CS在皮肤护理中的作用，同时阐述其对于皮肤丝聚蛋白通路的调控机理。方法：于干燥皮肤上，通过多功能皮肤探头、皮肤胶带取样，检测不同浓度CS即时使用和持续使用下，皮肤含水量、经表皮失水率（Trans-epidermal water loss，TEWL）、鳞屑占比的变化。同时于低湿度环境培养下的重组表皮模型上，采用免疫荧光染色、CCK-8染色、高效液相法，分析CS对于丝聚蛋白降解相关指标的影响。结果：5% CS在使用后4 h可显著提升皮肤含水量，改善皮肤鳞屑占比。使用后7 d，1%、5% CS也可显著提升皮肤含水量，降低TEWL，改善皮肤鳞屑占比。3% CS涂抹于低湿度处理下的重组表皮模型上，4 h时可提升半胱天冬酶 14 、博来霉素水解酶表达量，促进吡咯烷酮羧酸（Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid，PCA）形成。24 h时改善细胞活力和皮肤结构，恢复皮肤含水量。结论：CS可通过调控丝聚蛋白通路来改善皮肤干燥状态，短时促进丝聚蛋白降解形成PCA，长效改善皮肤结构完整性和屏障功能。

Abstract:: Objective By studying the improvement eff ect of Capparis spinosa fruit extract (CS) on dry skin, the role of CS in skin care was discussed, and its mechanism on the fi laggrin pathway was described. Methods On dry skin, multi-probe and skin tape were used to detect the changes of skin hydration, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and scale ratio under immediate and continuous use the diff erent concentrations of CS. On the recombinant epidermis model cultured under a low humidity environment, immunofl uorescence staining, CCK-8 staining and high performance liquid phase methods were used to analyze the eff ect of CS on the degradation of fi laggrin. Results 5% CS could signifi cantly increase skin hydration and improve the proportion of skin scales 4 hours after use. 7 days after use, 1% and 5% CS can also signifi cantly increase skin hgdration, reduce TEWL, and improve the proportion of skin scales. Applying 3% CS to the recombinant epidermis model under low humidity can increase the expression of caspase 14 and bleomycin hydrolase and promote the formation of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) at 4 h. CS improves cell viability and skin structure and restores skin hgdration within 24 hours. Conclusion CS can improve skin dryness by regulating the fi laggrin pathway, to promote the degradation of fi laggrin into PCA in a short time, and improve skin structural integrity and barrier function in a long-term.