[1]任姝静,王志华,张晓鸥,等.含透明质酸、聚谷氨酸钠、乙酰壳糖胺护肤复合物的保湿性能及屏障修复功能研究[J].中国美容医学,2023,(11):71-75.[doi:10.15909/j.cnki.cn61-1347/r.006007]
　REN Shujing,WANG Zhihua,ZHANG Xiaoou,et al.Evaluation of Moisturizing Properties and Infl uence of Skin Barrier Repair Function of A Cosmetic Material Composed of Hyaluronic Acid,Sodium Polyglutamate,and Acetyl Glucosamine[J].Medical Aesthetics and Beauty,2023,(11):71-75.[doi:10.15909/j.cnki.cn61-1347/r.006007]
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含透明质酸、聚谷氨酸钠、乙酰壳糖胺护肤复合物的保湿性能及屏障修复功能研究()
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《中国美容医学》[ISSN:1008-6445/CN:61-1347/R]

卷:
期数:
2023年11期
页码:
71-75
栏目:
出版日期:
2023-11-10

文章信息/Info

Title:
Evaluation of Moisturizing Properties and Infl uence of Skin Barrier Repair Function of A Cosmetic Material Composed of Hyaluronic Acid,Sodium Polyglutamate,and Acetyl Glucosamine
文章编号:
1008-6455（2023）11-0071-05
作者:
任姝静1 ; 王志华1 ; 张晓鸥1 ; 郭学平1 ; 刘 卫2 ; 王玉玲1
(1.华熙生物科技股份有限公司研发中心 山东 济南 2501012.华中科技大学生命科学与技术学院 湖北 武汉 430074)
Author(s):
REN Shujing1 ; WANG Zhihua1 ; ZHANG Xiaoou1 ; GUO Xueping1 ; LIU Wei2 ; WANG Yuling1
(1.R&D Center Bloomage Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.,Jinan 250101,Shandong,China 2.College of Life Science and Technology,Huazhong University of Science and Technology,Wuhan 430074,Hubei,China)
关键词:
透明质酸; 屏障修复; 天然保湿因子; 丝聚蛋白; 兜甲蛋白; 转谷氨酰胺酶; 神经酰胺
Keywords:
hyaluronic acid skin barrier repair natural moisturizing factor fi laggrin loricrin transglutaminase 1 ceramide
分类号:
R758.2
DOI:
10.15909/j.cnki.cn61-1347/r.006007
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
目的：研究含透明质酸（Hyaluronic acid,HA）、聚谷氨酸钠（Sodium polyglutamate,PGA）、乙酰壳糖胺（Acetyl glucosamine,NAG）的护肤复合物（熙衡因）对皮肤屏障的影响。方法：采用角质形成细胞评估熙衡因的细胞毒性，在此基 础上通过3D皮肤模型考察其对吡咯烷酮羧酸（Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid,PCA）、丝聚蛋白（Filaggrin,FLG）、兜甲 蛋白（Loricrin,LOR）、转谷氨酰胺酶1（Transglutaminase 1,TGM 1）和神经酰胺的影响，并通过人体临床实验，于使用 前、使用后1、2、4周分别测试含有2%熙衡因的乳液对经皮水分流失（Trans epidermal water loss,TEWL）的影响。结 果：MTT实验结果表明熙衡因在10 mg/ml浓度范围内对角质形成细胞无明显细胞毒性，选定1.25 mg/ml进行测试，该浓 度下其可以显著增加PCA、FLG、LOR、TGM1和神经酰胺含量（P＜0.05），并可以上调神经酰胺/蛋白（P＜0.05）和长 碳链神经酰胺占比；人体临床功效测试显示，相比空白对照组，含有2%熙衡因的实验组在使用样品后1、2、4周可以显著 降低TEWL（P＜0.01）。结论：熙衡因可以通过提高PCA、FLG、LOR、TGM1和神经酰胺含量，减少TEWL，发挥保湿和修复屏 障功能。
Abstract:
Objective To investigate the eff ect of a cosmetic raw material containing HA, PGA and NAG on the skin barrier. Methods Keratinocytes were used to evaluate the cytotoxicity, and the eff ect on PCA, FLG, LOR, TGM1 and ceramide were investigated by a 3D skin model. In order to further verify the barrier repair function, the eff ect of emulsion containing 2% of the compound material on TEWL was tested before and 1, 2 and 4 weeks after application through clinical trial. Results MTT results showed that the compound material had no obvious cytotoxicity to keratinocytes within the concentration of 10 mg/ml, and at 1.25 mg/ml, the compound material could not only signifi cantly up-regulate the expression of PCA, FLG, LOR, TGM1 and ceramide (P＜0.05),but also increase the ratio of ceramide to protein (P＜0.05) and the proportion of ceramide with longchain. The clinical test showed that compared with the control group, the experimental group with 2% of the compound material could signifi cantly reduce TEWL after applying the emulsion for 1 week, 2 weeks and 4 weeks (P ＜0.01). Conclusion The cosmetic raw material containing HA, PGA and NAG can exert the function of moisturizing and repairing barrier by increasing the content of PCA, FLG, LOR, TGM1 and ceramide, and decreasing TEWL.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2023-12-01